All of the images below are linked to the original if you want a larger pic, or want to download it.

OK, here is what I did.  First, I found the distance from the bottom of the inside of the backbox to the center of the eye on the backglass - 4" give or take an 1/8".  The center of the backbox is easy to find - it is where the lock is.  Next, I found a socket for the standard 906/555 lamp.  I used an old pop-bumper socket, and just cut off all that extra lead wire, leaving about a 1/4" on each end.  To mount it, I cut a piece of clear plexiglass 5" long by 1.5" wide.  I decided to use plexiglass so I could still see the circuit boards, fuses and LEDs, and to minimize any shadows that the fluorescent lamp might cast on a solid mount.  To fit the socket, I drilled a couple of holes next to each other just smaller than the thickness of the socket, then used a file to square the hole up and get to size.  Remember, the hole should be centered about 4" from the top of the plastic.  The socket is press fit, and is pretty snug.  If you make it a hair to big, I suppose you could use super-glue or epoxy to keep it from falling out.  Here is a shot of the bulb mounted on the plexiglass and installed where it belongs on the machine:

The plexiglass is mounted to the BACK of a wood block (painted black) about 3" x 3/4" x 3/4" using two #6 x 3/8" wood screws (predrill block and plastic to prevent splitting).  The block is mounted to the top of the backbox in the center using two #6 x 1" wood screws (again, predrill to prevent splitting).  Make sure the block is far enough back so that the bulb and reflector do NOT hit the backglass.  I soldered two leads to the socket, about 4 ft.  long each.  The wire needs to make it to the J6 connector on the lower RH portion of the power driver board.  Naturally, I wanted it to be neat, so I made them long enough to tuck in the existing wire holders.  I used 24 gauge solid copper wire, so it would be easy to insert into the KK connector on the board.  If you wanted to use the crimp-on splicers (from RadioShack), you could use any wire that fits the wire splicer (usually stated on the packaging).  After running the wires to the J6 connector, strip off about 3/8" of insulation, and simply push the stripped wires into the metal connectors at pins 3 and 10.  Since that circuit (flash #27) is dedicated to a single bulb - the rear flasher (tower), it should easily handle one extra flasher.  It is easier if you first remove the connector - so you can hold it in a comfortable manner.  Of course the power should be off at this point!  Here is a shot of the wiring to the power driver board J6 connector:

Now you need to cannibalize an old flashlight - you want the silver reflector off the end (Thanks to TheKorn - I got this idea from his ST:TNG lighting mod).  Insert the 906 bulb through the hole in the reflector, then plug it into the socket.  This will help focus the flash directly onto the eye and give the greatest effect.  Turn on the power and check by going into the diagnostic - flash test, and cycle the flashers (be sure the door switch is pulled out, or they won't work).  Bulb should flash when the eye of Sauron behind the Barad-dur tower flashes.  Here is a detailed shot of the install:

Reinstall backglass.  The diagnostic flash test is pretty weak - only flashes each circuit for about 1/10th of a second.  To really see it, hit the tower shot during normal gameplay, when the flash lasts about 1/4 to 1/2 second and "PULSES".  Now every time you hit the tower, the big eye will flash along with the little eye (to which my daughter said "It flashes?  I never knew that.").  That's why we're doing this, right?!

If you have any questions, give me a shout:

rfrysztak_NOSPAM_@notwires.com (remove the _NOSPAM_ before sending)


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More to come when I start thinking of things to modify AND I can find the time in between my other projects..